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2. While taped to the template, I trimmed each sheet along the outer guides. I use a rotary cutter to get a precision cut. If you're using scissors, don't worry. Some waivering that results in overlapping hardly detracts.
3. I mixed a 50/50 solution of white glue and water. Using a 1" flat paintbrush I generously coated the mounting area and the back of the first page. The dry wax paper is remarkably sturdy when wet so don't worry too much about tearing as you maneuver the page into place. I then brushed my glue solution over the top to minimize air bubbles and wrinkles. A slight bubbles and wrinkles will shrink away when dry and don't worry about saturation as it all dries to a clear matte finish. Also, some of the darker Sharpie pigments may bleed a little, especially reds. Any runoff onto the canvas can be covered with white paint.
3. I mixed a 50/50 solution of white glue and water. Using a 1" flat paintbrush I generously coated the mounting area and the back of the first page. The dry wax paper is remarkably sturdy when wet so don't worry too much about tearing as you maneuver the page into place. I then brushed my glue solution over the top to minimize air bubbles and wrinkles. A slight bubbles and wrinkles will shrink away when dry and don't worry about saturation as it all dries to a clear matte finish. Also, some of the darker Sharpie pigments may bleed a little, especially reds. Any runoff onto the canvas can be covered with white paint.
4. Repeat step 3 for each page, meeting the edges as closely as possible. It's better to overlap than to leave gaps. When dry, the drawings are fused to the canvas and appear to be painted on. You can’t even feel the edges. Sweet.
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